/* ============================================================================
   KALAHARI RED DUNE ROUTE — design system
   Two heights: the land from the ground, and the land from above.
   Palette sampled from the association's own dune photographs.
   Fraunces (display) + Archivo (structure) — self-hosted, OFL.
   ========================================================================== */

:root{
  /* ground */
  --night:#14110E;
  --night-2:#1C1815;
  --night-3:#262019;
  --sky-deep:#101A26;          /* the blue at the top of the Rooipan sky */
  /* the sand */
  --iron:#B24A24;              /* iron oxide — the reason the dunes are red */
  --iron-lit:#D2653A;
  --ember:#E39154;
  --sand:#C69A6A;
  --sand-pale:#DFC49E;
  /* bone */
  --bone:#F1E8D9;
  --bone-2:#E5D8C2;
  --bone-3:#D7C7AC;
  /* camelthorn */
  --thorn:#3E4A36;
  --thorn-lit:#75845E;

  --txt:#4A4034;
  --txt-soft:#7C6E5D;
  --txt-inv:#DED2BE;
  --txt-inv-soft:#9E907C;

  --hair:rgba(74,64,52,.18);
  --hair-inv:rgba(222,210,190,.16);

  --ease:cubic-bezier(.22,1,.36,1);
  --pad-x:clamp(20px,5vw,92px);
  --maxw:1560px;
  --nav-h:74px;
}

*{margin:0;padding:0;box-sizing:border-box}
html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%}
html.lenis,html.lenis body{height:auto}
.lenis.lenis-smooth{scroll-behavior:auto !important}

body{
  font-family:'Archivo',system-ui,-apple-system,sans-serif;
  font-weight:380;
  font-size:17px;
  line-height:1.62;
  color:var(--txt);
  background:var(--bone);
  overflow-x:clip;
  -webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;
  text-rendering:optimizeLegibility;
}
img,svg,video{display:block;max-width:100%}
a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}
button{font:inherit;color:inherit;background:none;border:0;cursor:pointer}
::selection{background:var(--iron);color:var(--bone)}

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- type */
.display{
  font-family:'Fraunces','Iowan Old Style',Georgia,serif;
  font-variation-settings:'opsz' 144,'SOFT' 0,'WONK' 1;
  font-weight:640;
  line-height:1.0;
  letter-spacing:-.022em;
  color:var(--night);
  text-wrap:balance;
}
.display em{font-style:italic;font-weight:560;color:var(--iron)}
h1.display{font-size:clamp(44px,7.4vw,124px)}
h2.display{font-size:clamp(34px,4.8vw,76px)}
h3.display{font-size:clamp(24px,2.5vw,38px)}
h4.display{font-size:clamp(20px,1.7vw,26px);font-variation-settings:'opsz' 48,'SOFT' 0,'WONK' 1}

.on-dark .display,.on-dark h1,.on-dark h2,.on-dark h3,.on-dark h4{color:var(--bone)}
.on-dark{color:var(--txt-inv)}
.on-dark p{color:var(--txt-inv)}
.on-dark .small,.on-dark .meta{color:var(--txt-inv-soft)}

/* the structural voice: survey labels, never sentences */
.label{
  font-family:'Archivo',sans-serif;
  font-weight:600;
  font-size:11px;
  letter-spacing:.3em;
  text-transform:uppercase;
  color:var(--iron);
  font-variation-settings:'wdth' 100;
}
.on-dark .label{color:var(--ember)}
.lede{font-size:clamp(18px,1.35vw,21.5px);line-height:1.58;font-weight:350;max-width:36em}
.small{font-size:13.5px;color:var(--txt-soft);line-height:1.5}
.meta{
  font-size:12px;font-weight:500;letter-spacing:.06em;
  color:var(--txt-soft);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;
}
.coord{
  font-family:'Archivo',sans-serif;font-weight:450;
  font-variation-settings:'wdth' 80;
  font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;
  font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.08em;color:var(--txt-soft);
}
.on-dark .coord{color:var(--txt-inv-soft)}

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- shell */
.wrap{max-width:var(--maxw);margin-inline:auto;padding-inline:var(--pad-x)}
.section{padding-block:clamp(72px,9vw,152px)}
.section--tight{padding-block:clamp(52px,6vw,96px)}
.bg-night{background:var(--night)}
.bg-night-2{background:var(--night-2)}
.bg-bone{background:var(--bone)}
.bg-bone-2{background:var(--bone-2)}

.rule{height:1px;background:var(--hair);border:0}
.on-dark .rule{background:var(--hair-inv)}

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- nav */
.nav{
  position:fixed;inset:0 0 auto 0;z-index:900;
  height:var(--nav-h);
  display:flex;align-items:center;gap:24px;
  padding-inline:clamp(14px,3vw,32px);
  transition:background .45s var(--ease),box-shadow .45s var(--ease);
}
.nav::before{
  content:'';position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:-1;
  background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(20,17,14,.62),rgba(20,17,14,0));
  opacity:1;transition:opacity .4s var(--ease);
}
.nav.is-solid{background:rgba(20,17,14,.92);backdrop-filter:blur(14px);box-shadow:0 1px 0 var(--hair-inv)}
.nav.is-solid::before{opacity:0}

/* their logo is a knockout mark — it needs a light ground.
   giving it one turns it into a map cartouche, which is the language anyway. */
.brand{
  display:flex;align-items:center;
  background:var(--bone);
  padding:9px 13px;
  border-radius:2px;
  box-shadow:0 2px 18px rgba(0,0,0,.28);
  flex:0 0 auto;
}
.brand img{width:clamp(132px,15vw,178px);height:auto}

.nav__links{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:clamp(16px,2vw,30px);margin-left:auto}
.nav__links a{
  font-size:12.5px;font-weight:500;letter-spacing:.15em;text-transform:uppercase;
  color:var(--txt-inv);padding-block:6px;position:relative;
}
.nav__links a::after{
  content:'';position:absolute;left:0;right:0;bottom:0;height:1px;
  background:var(--ember);transform:scaleX(0);transform-origin:left;
  transition:transform .4s var(--ease);
}
.nav__links a:hover::after,.nav__links a[aria-current]::after{transform:scaleX(1)}
.nav__links a[aria-current]{color:var(--ember)}

.burger{display:none;margin-left:auto;width:46px;height:46px;position:relative;z-index:960}
.burger span{
  position:absolute;left:11px;right:11px;height:1.5px;background:var(--bone);
  transition:transform .4s var(--ease),opacity .25s;
}
.burger span:nth-child(1){top:17px}
.burger span:nth-child(2){top:23px}
.burger span:nth-child(3){top:29px}
body.menu-open .burger span:nth-child(1){transform:translateY(6px) rotate(45deg)}
body.menu-open .burger span:nth-child(2){opacity:0}
body.menu-open .burger span:nth-child(3){transform:translateY(-6px) rotate(-45deg)}

.menu{
  position:fixed;inset:0;z-index:940;background:var(--night);
  display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;gap:6px;
  padding:96px var(--pad-x) 48px;
  clip-path:inset(0 0 100% 0);
  transition:clip-path .62s var(--ease);
  pointer-events:none;
}
body.menu-open .menu{clip-path:inset(0 0 0 0);pointer-events:auto}
/* 🔴 .nav is a stacking context at z-index 900, so the burger's own 960 is trapped
   inside it and the overlay (940) buried the ONLY way to close the menu. On a phone
   there is no Escape key — the visitor was stuck. The whole bar lifts over the overlay. */
body.menu-open .nav{z-index:960}
.menu a{
  font-family:'Fraunces',serif;font-variation-settings:'opsz' 90,'SOFT' 0,'WONK' 1;
  font-weight:600;font-size:clamp(32px,8vw,54px);color:var(--bone);
  line-height:1.18;display:flex;align-items:baseline;gap:14px;
  border-bottom:1px solid var(--hair-inv);padding-block:12px;
}
.menu a em{font-style:normal;font-family:'Archivo';font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.2em;
  text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ember);font-weight:600}

@media (max-width:960px){
  .nav__links{display:none}
  .burger{display:block}
}

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- buttons */
.btn{
  display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:10px;
  font-size:12.5px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;
  padding:15px 26px;border-radius:2px;
  background:var(--iron);color:var(--bone);
  transition:background .3s var(--ease),transform .3s var(--ease);
  min-height:48px;
}
.btn:hover{background:var(--iron-lit);transform:translateY(-1px)}
.btn--ghost{background:transparent;color:var(--night);box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px var(--hair)}
.btn--ghost:hover{background:var(--night);color:var(--bone)}
.on-dark .btn--ghost{color:var(--bone);box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px var(--hair-inv)}
.on-dark .btn--ghost:hover{background:var(--bone);color:var(--night)}
.btn--sm{padding:11px 18px;font-size:11px;min-height:40px}
.btn--wide{width:100%}
.btn svg{width:16px;height:16px;flex:0 0 auto;fill:currentColor}

.textlink{
  display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:9px;
  font-size:12.5px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.15em;text-transform:uppercase;
  color:var(--iron);padding-block:4px;position:relative;
}
.textlink::after{
  content:'';position:absolute;left:0;right:0;bottom:0;height:1px;background:currentColor;
  transform-origin:left;transition:transform .4s var(--ease);
}
.textlink:hover::after{transform:scaleX(.35)}
.on-dark .textlink{color:var(--ember)}

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- reveals */
[data-reveal]{opacity:0;transform:translateY(26px)}
html.no-js [data-reveal]{opacity:1;transform:none}

/* ============================================================ THE GATEWAY
   The dune photograph dissolves into our own satellite map of the same land.
   Sticky, not GSAP-pinned: Leaflet must never be inside a transformed parent. */
.gateway{position:relative;height:250vh}
.gateway__pin{position:sticky;top:0;height:100svh;overflow:hidden;background:var(--night)}

/* 🔴 The photograph fades to opacity 0 but an opacity-0 element still takes clicks —
   at z-index 2 it covered the map for the whole gateway and swallowed EVERY pin tap and
   every drag. It is decorative and holds nothing interactive, so it never takes a pointer. */
.gateway__photo{position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:2;will-change:opacity;pointer-events:none}
.gateway__photo img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 56%}
.gateway__photo::after{
  content:'';position:absolute;inset:0;
  background:
    linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(16,26,38,.55) 0%,rgba(16,26,38,0) 28%),
    linear-gradient(0deg,rgba(20,17,14,.72) 0%,rgba(20,17,14,0) 46%);
}
/* film grain — the source plate is 1620px wide; grain reads as craft, not softness */
.grain::before{
  content:'';position:absolute;inset:-50%;z-index:3;pointer-events:none;opacity:.075;
  background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='160' height='160'%3E%3Cfilter id='n'%3E%3CfeTurbulence type='fractalNoise' baseFrequency='.82' numOctaves='3'/%3E%3C/filter%3E%3Crect width='160' height='160' filter='url(%23n)'/%3E%3C/svg%3E");
  mix-blend-mode:overlay;
}

.gateway__map{position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:1;opacity:0}

.gateway__title{
  position:absolute;z-index:5;left:var(--pad-x);right:var(--pad-x);
  bottom:clamp(84px,13vh,150px);pointer-events:none;
}
.gateway__title h1{color:var(--bone);max-width:14ch;
  text-shadow:0 2px 40px rgba(10,8,6,.6)}
.gateway__title .label{color:var(--ember);margin-bottom:18px;display:block}
.gateway__title p{color:var(--txt-inv);max-width:34ch;margin-top:20px;font-size:clamp(16px,1.2vw,19px);
  text-shadow:0 1px 22px rgba(10,8,6,.8)}

/* the scroll cue doubles as the transition's own caption */
.gateway__cue{
  position:absolute;z-index:5;left:var(--pad-x);bottom:34px;pointer-events:none;
  display:flex;align-items:center;gap:12px;color:var(--txt-inv-soft);
  font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.24em;text-transform:uppercase;font-weight:500;
}
.gateway__cue i{
  display:block;width:34px;height:1px;background:var(--ember);transform-origin:left;
  animation:cue 2.8s var(--ease) infinite;
}
@keyframes cue{0%{transform:scaleX(0)}45%{transform:scaleX(1)}100%{transform:scaleX(0);transform-origin:right}}

/* the map's own furniture, revealed as the photograph goes */
.gateway__ui{position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:6;opacity:0;pointer-events:none}
.gateway__ui .filters,.gateway__ui .maplegend,.gateway__ui .mapzoom{pointer-events:auto}

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- the map */
.leaflet-container{background:var(--night);font:inherit;outline:0}
.leaflet-container a{color:var(--ember)}
.leaflet-control-attribution{
  background:rgba(20,17,14,.78)!important;color:var(--txt-inv-soft)!important;
  font-family:'Archivo',sans-serif!important;font-size:10.5px!important;
  padding:4px 9px!important;letter-spacing:.03em;
}
.leaflet-control-attribution a{color:var(--sand)!important}
/* 🔴 Leaflet ships mix-blend-mode:plus-lighter on tiles to hide its own cross-fade.
   Our map is TWO stacked graded layers — the wide ring painting under the detail box —
   so plus-lighter ADDS them wherever a tile edge is semi-transparent and draws a bright
   line across the satellite at every tile boundary. Normal compositing is what we want. */
.leaflet-tile{filter:none;mix-blend-mode:normal}
.leaflet-container img.leaflet-tile{mix-blend-mode:normal}

/* a pin carries a NAME, never a number */
.pin{position:relative;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:0;cursor:pointer;white-space:nowrap}
.pin__dot{
  width:11px;height:11px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--ember);
  box-shadow:0 0 0 2px rgba(20,17,14,.9),0 0 14px rgba(227,145,84,.7);
  flex:0 0 auto;transition:transform .28s var(--ease),background .28s;
}
.pin__name{
  margin-left:8px;
  font-size:11.5px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.045em;
  color:var(--bone);
  text-shadow:0 1px 3px rgba(12,9,7,.95),0 0 12px rgba(12,9,7,.85);
  transition:color .28s;
}
.pin:hover .pin__dot,.pin.is-active .pin__dot{transform:scale(1.5);background:var(--bone)}
.pin:hover .pin__name,.pin.is-active .pin__name{color:var(--ember)}
.pin--dim{opacity:.24;filter:saturate(.3)}
.pin--dim .pin__name{display:none}

.cluster{
  display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;justify-content:center;
  width:46px;height:46px;border-radius:50%;
  background:rgba(178,74,36,.9);box-shadow:0 0 0 1px rgba(241,232,217,.4),0 6px 22px rgba(0,0,0,.5);
  color:var(--bone);cursor:pointer;
  transition:transform .3s var(--ease),background .3s;
}
.cluster b{font-size:15px;font-weight:700;line-height:1;font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
.cluster i{font-style:normal;font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.13em;text-transform:uppercase;opacity:.85;margin-top:2px}
.cluster:hover{transform:scale(1.09);background:var(--iron-lit)}

/* the card that opens when you click a pin */
.placecard{
  position:absolute;z-index:640;left:var(--pad-x);bottom:26px;width:min(370px,calc(100vw - 2*var(--pad-x)));
  background:var(--bone);border-radius:3px;overflow:hidden;
  box-shadow:0 24px 60px rgba(0,0,0,.55);
  opacity:0;transform:translateY(14px);pointer-events:none;
  transition:opacity .38s var(--ease),transform .38s var(--ease);
}
.placecard.is-open{opacity:1;transform:none;pointer-events:auto}
.placecard__img{aspect-ratio:16/9;background:var(--night-3)}
.placecard__img img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}
.placecard__body{padding:16px 18px 18px}
.placecard h3{font-family:'Fraunces',serif;font-variation-settings:'opsz' 48,'SOFT' 0,'WONK' 1;
  font-weight:640;font-size:21px;line-height:1.14;color:var(--night);letter-spacing:-.015em}
.placecard .kind{margin-top:7px;text-wrap:balance}
.placecard p{font-size:14px;line-height:1.5;color:var(--txt);margin-top:9px}
.placecard__acts{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:8px;margin-top:15px}
.placecard__close{
  position:absolute;top:8px;right:8px;width:34px;height:34px;border-radius:50%;
  background:rgba(20,17,14,.6);color:var(--bone);display:grid;place-items:center;font-size:17px;line-height:1;
}
.placecard__close:hover{background:var(--night)}

/* filters */
.filters{
  position:absolute;z-index:620;top:calc(var(--nav-h) + 14px);left:var(--pad-x);right:var(--pad-x);
  display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:7px;align-items:center;
}
.chip{
  font-size:11px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.13em;text-transform:uppercase;
  padding:8px 13px;border-radius:100px;color:var(--txt-inv);
  background:rgba(20,17,14,.62);backdrop-filter:blur(9px);
  box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px var(--hair-inv);
  transition:background .28s,color .28s,box-shadow .28s;
  min-height:34px;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;
}
.chip:hover{background:rgba(20,17,14,.9);color:var(--bone)}
.chip.is-on{background:var(--iron);color:var(--bone);box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px var(--iron-lit)}
.chip__sep{width:1px;height:20px;background:var(--hair-inv);margin-inline:5px}

.maplegend{
  position:absolute;z-index:620;right:var(--pad-x);bottom:26px;text-align:right;
  color:var(--txt-inv-soft);font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;font-weight:500;
  max-width:min(280px,40vw);
  /* pale type on a bright dune reads as nothing — the legend carries its own ground,
     the same dark glass the chips and the zoom sit on */
  background:rgba(20,17,14,.62);backdrop-filter:blur(9px);
  box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px var(--hair-inv);border-radius:2px;padding:11px 14px;
}
.maplegend b{display:block;color:var(--ember);font-size:12px;font-weight:600}
.maplegend span{display:block;margin-top:5px;line-height:1.5;letter-spacing:.06em;text-transform:none;font-size:11.5px}
/* the desktop legend keeps the long sentence; the short line is a phone-only swap.
   Declared BEFORE the phone block on purpose — a media query adds no specificity. */
.maplegend .short{display:none}

.mapzoom{position:absolute;z-index:620;right:var(--pad-x);top:calc(var(--nav-h) + 14px);display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:1px}
.mapzoom button{
  width:38px;height:38px;background:rgba(20,17,14,.66);backdrop-filter:blur(9px);
  color:var(--bone);font-size:17px;line-height:1;display:grid;place-items:center;
  box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px var(--hair-inv);
}
.mapzoom button:first-child{border-radius:2px 2px 0 0}
.mapzoom button:last-child{border-radius:0 0 2px 2px}
.mapzoom button:hover{background:var(--iron)}
/* the pan toggle only exists where a swipe can be stolen — phones. JS hides it elsewhere. */
.mapzoom__pan svg{width:17px;height:17px;display:block}
.mapzoom__pan.is-on{background:var(--iron);box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px var(--iron-lit)}
.mapzoom__pan[hidden]{display:none}
/* the route page's own map furniture — a class, never an inline style, because an
   inline style beats every media query below */
.mapzoom--route{top:20px}
.maplegend--route{bottom:20px}

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- editorial */
.split{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) minmax(0,1fr);gap:clamp(30px,5vw,86px);align-items:center}
.split--top{align-items:start}
@media (max-width:900px){.split{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:34px}}

.figure{position:relative;overflow:hidden;border-radius:2px;background:var(--night-3)}
.figure img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}
.figure figcaption{
  position:absolute;left:0;right:0;bottom:0;padding:34px 18px 13px;
  background:linear-gradient(0deg,rgba(20,17,14,.86),transparent);
  color:var(--txt-inv);font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.05em;
}

.eyebrowrow{display:flex;align-items:baseline;gap:16px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-bottom:22px}
.eyebrowrow .rule{flex:1;min-width:30px}

/* big honest numbers */
.figures{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);gap:1px;background:var(--hair-inv)}
.figures div{background:var(--night);padding:clamp(22px,3vw,40px) clamp(16px,2vw,28px)}
.figures b{
  display:block;font-family:'Fraunces',serif;font-variation-settings:'opsz' 120,'SOFT' 0,'WONK' 1;
  font-weight:620;font-size:clamp(38px,4.4vw,64px);line-height:.95;color:var(--bone);
  font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;letter-spacing:-.02em;
}
.figures span{display:block;margin-top:11px;font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase;
  color:var(--txt-inv-soft);font-weight:500;line-height:1.5}
@media (max-width:760px){.figures{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}}

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- place grid */
.board{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(310px,1fr));gap:clamp(18px,2.2vw,34px)}
.card{display:block;position:relative;background:var(--bone);border-radius:2px;overflow:hidden;
  transition:transform .5s var(--ease),box-shadow .5s var(--ease)}
.card:hover{transform:translateY(-4px);box-shadow:0 18px 44px rgba(50,36,22,.16)}
.on-dark .card{background:var(--night-2)}
.on-dark .card:hover{box-shadow:0 18px 44px rgba(0,0,0,.5)}
.card__img{aspect-ratio:4/3;overflow:hidden;background:var(--night-3);position:relative}
.card__img img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform 1.1s var(--ease)}
.card:hover .card__img img{transform:scale(1.045)}
.card__flag{
  position:absolute;top:10px;left:10px;z-index:2;
  background:rgba(20,17,14,.76);backdrop-filter:blur(6px);color:var(--bone);
  font-size:10px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;padding:5px 9px;border-radius:2px;
}
.card__body{padding:16px 17px 20px}
.card h3{font-family:'Fraunces',serif;font-variation-settings:'opsz' 48,'SOFT' 0,'WONK' 1;
  font-weight:640;font-size:20px;line-height:1.16;letter-spacing:-.015em;color:var(--night)}
.on-dark .card h3{color:var(--bone)}
.card p{font-size:14px;line-height:1.5;margin-top:8px;color:var(--txt-soft)}
.on-dark .card p{color:var(--txt-inv-soft)}
.card__foot{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:8px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:13px;
  padding-top:12px;border-top:1px solid var(--hair)}
.on-dark .card__foot{border-top-color:var(--hair-inv)}
.tag{font-size:10px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;
  color:var(--txt-soft);box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px var(--hair);padding:4px 8px;border-radius:100px}
.on-dark .tag{color:var(--txt-inv-soft);box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px var(--hair-inv)}

/* a card with no photograph gets our own satellite of its ground — never a stand-in photo */
.plate{
  position:relative;background:var(--night-3);display:grid;place-items:center;overflow:hidden;
}
.plate img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;opacity:.92}
.plate__mark{
  position:absolute;inset:0;display:grid;place-items:center;text-align:center;padding:18px;
  background:radial-gradient(ellipse at center,rgba(20,17,14,.18),rgba(20,17,14,.72));
}
.plate__mark span{
  font-size:10px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--sand-pale);
  line-height:1.7;
}

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- filter bar (Stay page) */
.filterbar{
  position:sticky;top:var(--nav-h);z-index:500;
  background:rgba(241,232,217,.94);backdrop-filter:blur(14px);
  box-shadow:0 1px 0 var(--hair);
}
.filterbar__in{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:7px;align-items:center;
  padding:13px var(--pad-x);max-width:var(--maxw);margin-inline:auto}
.filterbar .chip{background:transparent;color:var(--txt);box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px var(--hair)}
.filterbar .chip:hover{background:var(--night);color:var(--bone)}
.filterbar .chip.is-on{background:var(--iron);color:var(--bone);box-shadow:none}
.filterbar__count{margin-left:auto;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;
  color:var(--txt-soft);font-weight:500;font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
@media (max-width:700px){
  .filterbar__in{padding-block:10px}
  .filterbar__count{width:100%;margin-left:0;order:-1;margin-bottom:2px}
}

/* ============================================================ PLACE BOARD */
.pagehero{position:relative;height:min(72svh,760px);min-height:430px;overflow:hidden;background:var(--night)}
.pagehero__bg{position:absolute;inset:0}
.pagehero__bg img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}
.pagehero__bg::after{
  content:'';position:absolute;inset:0;
  /* the headline sits in the lower third — the scrim has to reach it, not stop short */
  background:
    linear-gradient(0deg,rgba(20,17,14,.94) 0%,rgba(20,17,14,.74) 24%,
                         rgba(20,17,14,.30) 52%,rgba(20,17,14,0) 74%),
    linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(20,17,14,.5) 0%,rgba(20,17,14,0) 22%),
    linear-gradient(90deg,rgba(20,17,14,.62) 0%,rgba(20,17,14,0) 58%);
}
/* A photograph smaller than the band is not stretched. It is hung as a PLATE, to the
   right, over our own satellite of that same ground — the site's whole idea at place scale. */
.pagehero--plate .pagehero__bg picture{position:static}
.pagehero--plate .pagehero__bg > picture > img{
  position:absolute;top:50%;right:clamp(20px,4vw,72px);transform:translateY(-50%);
  width:auto;height:auto;max-width:min(54%,700px);max-height:74%;object-fit:contain;
  box-shadow:0 34px 90px rgba(0,0,0,.66);border-radius:2px;
}
.pagehero--plate .pagehero__txt h1,
.pagehero--plate .pagehero__txt .lede{max-width:min(46%,540px)}
.pagehero__sat{position:absolute;inset:0}
.pagehero__sat img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}
.pagehero--plate .pagehero__sat{opacity:.78}
.pagehero--plate .pagehero__sat img{filter:blur(2px) saturate(.9)}
/* no photograph exists — their ground carries the band on its own */
.pagehero--sat .pagehero__sat--solo img{opacity:.95}
.pagehero__note{
  position:absolute;z-index:4;right:clamp(20px,4vw,72px);top:calc(var(--nav-h) + 26px);
  max-width:min(340px,62vw);text-align:right;
  background:rgba(20,17,14,.82);backdrop-filter:blur(10px);
  box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px var(--hair-inv);border-radius:2px;
  padding:15px 17px;
}
.pagehero__note p{color:var(--txt-inv);font-size:13px;line-height:1.55;margin-top:9px}
@media (max-width:820px){
  .pagehero--plate .pagehero__bg > picture > img{
    max-width:86%;max-height:46%;right:auto;left:50%;top:26%;transform:translate(-50%,-50%);
  }
  .pagehero--plate .pagehero__txt h1,
  .pagehero--plate .pagehero__txt .lede{max-width:none}
  .pagehero__note{position:absolute;top:auto;bottom:14px;right:var(--pad-x);left:var(--pad-x);
    text-align:left;max-width:none;padding:12px 14px}
  .pagehero--sat{height:auto;min-height:0}
}

.pagehero__txt{position:absolute;left:var(--pad-x);right:var(--pad-x);bottom:clamp(28px,5vh,54px);z-index:3}
.pagehero__txt h1{color:var(--bone);max-width:17ch;text-shadow:0 2px 34px rgba(10,8,6,.7)}
.pagehero__txt .lede{color:var(--txt-inv);margin-top:14px;max-width:44ch;
  text-shadow:0 1px 20px rgba(10,8,6,.85)}
.pagehero__facts{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px 22px;margin-top:20px;align-items:center}
.pagehero__facts span{font-size:11.5px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;
  color:var(--sand-pale);display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:9px}
.pagehero__facts span+span::before{content:'';width:4px;height:4px;border-radius:50%;
  background:var(--iron);margin-right:4px}

.placegrid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 372px;gap:clamp(28px,4vw,70px);align-items:start}
@media (max-width:1040px){.placegrid{grid-template-columns:1fr}}

/* the sticky contact card — every button here resolves, or it is not rendered */
.contactcard{position:sticky;top:calc(var(--nav-h) + 22px)}
.contactcard__in{background:var(--night);color:var(--txt-inv);border-radius:3px;overflow:hidden}
.contactcard__hd{padding:22px 22px 6px}
.contactcard__hd .label{color:var(--ember)}
.contactcard__hd h3{color:var(--bone);margin-top:9px;font-family:'Fraunces',serif;
  font-variation-settings:'opsz' 48,'SOFT' 0,'WONK' 1;font-weight:640;font-size:23px;line-height:1.15}
.contactcard__acts{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:8px;padding:18px 22px 22px}
.contactcard__note{padding:0 22px 20px;font-size:12px;line-height:1.55;color:var(--txt-inv-soft)}
.btn--wa{background:#25806a}
.btn--wa:hover{background:#2e9a80}
.btn--line{background:transparent;color:var(--bone);box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px var(--hair-inv)}
.btn--line:hover{background:var(--bone);color:var(--night)}

.minimap{height:250px;background:var(--night-3);position:relative;border-top:1px solid var(--hair-inv)}
.minimap .leaflet-container{background:var(--night-3)}
.coordbar{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:12px;padding:12px 22px;
  background:var(--night-2);border-top:1px solid var(--hair-inv)}

.chips{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;margin-top:22px}
.chips b{
  font-size:11px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;
  padding:8px 13px;border-radius:100px;color:var(--iron);
  box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px rgba(178,74,36,.36);background:rgba(178,74,36,.06);
}

.gallery{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(260px,1fr));gap:12px;margin-top:14px}
.gallery figure{position:relative;overflow:hidden;border-radius:2px;background:var(--night-3);aspect-ratio:3/2}
.gallery figure:first-child{grid-column:span 2;aspect-ratio:16/9}
@media (max-width:640px){.gallery figure:first-child{grid-column:span 1;aspect-ratio:3/2}}
.gallery img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform 1s var(--ease)}
.gallery figure:hover img{transform:scale(1.04)}
.gallery figcaption{position:absolute;left:0;right:0;bottom:0;padding:26px 13px 10px;
  background:linear-gradient(0deg,rgba(20,17,14,.85),transparent);
  color:var(--txt-inv);font-size:11.5px;letter-spacing:.05em}

/* one photograph is not thin if it is given the room a single photograph deserves */
.solo{margin-top:16px}
.solo figure{position:relative;border-radius:2px;overflow:hidden;background:var(--night-3)}
.solo img{width:100%;height:auto}
.solo figcaption{margin-top:11px;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:16px;
  font-size:12px;color:var(--txt-soft);letter-spacing:.04em}

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- route page */
.stations{position:relative;margin-top:12px}
.stations::before{content:'';position:absolute;left:7px;top:10px;bottom:10px;width:1px;
  background:linear-gradient(180deg,var(--iron),rgba(178,74,36,.15))}
.station{position:relative;padding-left:44px;padding-block:clamp(20px,2.6vw,34px)}
.station::before{content:'';position:absolute;left:0;top:calc(clamp(20px,2.6vw,34px) + 7px);
  width:15px;height:15px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--night);
  box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 2px var(--ember)}
.station--major::before{background:var(--ember)}
.station h3{color:var(--bone)}
.station .km{color:var(--ember);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;font-weight:600;
  font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase}
.station p{color:var(--txt-inv);margin-top:8px;max-width:56ch}
.station__places{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:7px;margin-top:14px}
.station__places a{font-size:11.5px;letter-spacing:.06em;color:var(--txt-inv);
  box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px var(--hair-inv);padding:6px 11px;border-radius:100px;
  transition:background .3s,color .3s}
.station__places a:hover{background:var(--ember);color:var(--night)}

.routemap{height:min(86svh,880px);min-height:440px;position:relative;background:var(--night)}

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- footer */
.foot{background:var(--night);color:var(--txt-inv);padding-block:clamp(56px,7vw,96px)}
.foot__grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.25fr 1fr 1fr;gap:clamp(28px,4vw,60px)}
@media (max-width:860px){.foot__grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:34px}}
.foot .brand{display:inline-flex;box-shadow:none}
.foot h4{font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.24em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ember);
  font-weight:600;margin-bottom:16px;font-family:'Archivo',sans-serif}
.foot ul{list-style:none;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:9px}
.foot a:hover{color:var(--ember)}
.foot__base{margin-top:clamp(38px,5vw,64px);padding-top:22px;border-top:1px solid var(--hair-inv);
  display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:12px 28px;justify-content:space-between;align-items:baseline}

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- misc */
.skip{position:absolute;left:-9999px;top:0;z-index:999;background:var(--bone);color:var(--night);padding:12px 18px}
.skip:focus{left:8px;top:8px}
:where(a,button,input,select,[tabindex]):focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--ember);outline-offset:3px}

.progress{position:fixed;top:0;left:0;right:0;height:2px;z-index:950;pointer-events:none}
.progress i{display:block;height:100%;background:var(--iron-lit);transform:scaleX(0);transform-origin:left}

.notice{
  background:rgba(178,74,36,.08);box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px rgba(178,74,36,.22);
  border-radius:2px;padding:16px 18px;font-size:13.5px;line-height:1.55;color:var(--txt);
}
.on-dark .notice{background:rgba(227,145,84,.08);box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px rgba(227,145,84,.2);color:var(--txt-inv)}

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- motion off */
@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){
  *,*::before,*::after{animation-duration:.01ms!important;animation-iteration-count:1!important;
    transition-duration:.14s!important;scroll-behavior:auto!important}
  /* nothing may end up invisible: reveals resolve immediately */
  [data-reveal]{opacity:1!important;transform:none!important}
  /* the gateway stops being a scrubbed dissolve and becomes two honest sections */
  .gateway{height:auto}
  .gateway__pin{position:relative;height:auto}
  .gateway__photo{position:relative;height:74svh}
  .gateway__map{position:relative;height:78svh;opacity:1!important}
  .gateway__title{position:absolute;bottom:clamp(40px,8vh,90px)}
  .gateway__ui{opacity:1!important}
  .gateway__cue{display:none}
  .card:hover{transform:none}
  .card:hover .card__img img,.gallery figure:hover img{transform:none}
}

/* ============================================================ THE PHONE PASS
   Fifteen chips wrapped into nine rows on a 390px screen: 362px of the map and
   the whole Stay list were buried under filters nobody could see past. On a
   phone the chips become ONE swipeable rail, and the map's furniture moves out
   of the way of the thing it describes. 2026-08-21. */
@media (max-width:700px){

  /* --- the chip rail: one line, swiped, fading at both ends so it reads as one */
  .filters,
  .filterbar__in{
    flex-wrap:nowrap;
    overflow-x:auto;overflow-y:hidden;
    -webkit-overflow-scrolling:touch;
    scrollbar-width:none;
    overscroll-behavior-x:contain;
  }
  .filters::-webkit-scrollbar,
  .filterbar__in::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}
  .filters .chip,.filterbar .chip,
  .filters .chip__sep,.filterbar .chip__sep{flex:0 0 auto}

  /* the map's rail sits in the top band and spans edge to edge, so the fade
     lands on the screen edge rather than inside the padding */
  .filters{
    top:calc(var(--nav-h) + 10px);left:0;right:0;
    padding-inline:var(--pad-x);gap:7px;
    -webkit-mask-image:linear-gradient(90deg,transparent 0,#000 18px,#000 calc(100% - 30px),transparent 100%);
            mask-image:linear-gradient(90deg,transparent 0,#000 18px,#000 calc(100% - 30px),transparent 100%);
  }
  /* the Stay bar keeps its own padding — it is a bar, not an overlay */
  .filterbar__in{
    -webkit-mask-image:linear-gradient(90deg,transparent 0,#000 16px,#000 calc(100% - 28px),transparent 100%);
            mask-image:linear-gradient(90deg,transparent 0,#000 16px,#000 calc(100% - 28px),transparent 100%);
  }
  /* the count is a fact, not a chip — it is lifted OUT of the rail's flex flow
     and hung on the bar itself, which is sticky and therefore already positioned */
  .filterbar{padding-top:30px}
  .filterbar__count{position:absolute;top:10px;left:var(--pad-x);width:auto;margin:0}

  /* --- zoom moves off the rail's line and out of the card's way */
  .mapzoom,.mapzoom--route{top:auto;bottom:82px;right:var(--pad-x);flex-direction:row;gap:1px}
  .mapzoom button{width:44px;height:44px}
  .mapzoom button:first-child{border-radius:2px 0 0 2px}
  .mapzoom button:last-child{border-radius:0 2px 2px 0}
  .maplegend--route{bottom:auto}

  /* --- the legend becomes one honest line under the rail; the bottom of the
         screen is reserved for the card a tap opens */
  .maplegend{
    top:calc(var(--nav-h) + 60px);bottom:auto;left:var(--pad-x);right:auto;
    max-width:calc(100% - 2*var(--pad-x));text-align:left;padding:8px 12px;
  }
  /* the route map has no chip rail above it, so its legend sits at the top of the band */
  .maplegend--route{top:16px}
  .maplegend b{display:none}
  .maplegend .long{display:none}
  .maplegend .short{
    display:block;margin:0;font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.13em;text-transform:uppercase;
    font-weight:600;color:var(--sand-pale);text-shadow:0 1px 10px rgba(12,9,7,.9);
  }

  /* --- the card a tap opens gets the full width and can never be taller than
         the screen it opens on */
  .placecard{
    left:var(--pad-x);right:var(--pad-x);width:auto;
    bottom:18px;max-height:min(64svh,520px);overflow-y:auto;
  }
  .placecard__img{aspect-ratio:2/1}
  /* two equal columns at 350px wide: the labels have to hold one line each or the
     pair reads lopsided — one button two lines, the other one */
  .placecard__acts .btn{padding-inline:10px;letter-spacing:.09em;font-size:10.5px}
  /* the controls step aside rather than sit half-buried under the open card */
  body.krdr-card .mapzoom,
  body.krdr-card .maplegend{opacity:0;pointer-events:none;transition:opacity .25s var(--ease)}
}